Glacier National Park

Glacier National Park

From Glacier to Yellowstone
8 days in Montana
Part 2 of a 5 part series
glacier national park

The second day of our Montana adventure took us to Glacier National Park, known as the Crown of the Continent. We only had a couple of days to hit the high points but without question will return here for future visits. The late June snow delayed the partial opening of Glacier’s main Going-to-the-Sun-Road, which was disappointing, but we made the best of it!  

Two very important things you need to know

  • You must have a park pass to get into any part of Glacier National Park.
  • You need to purchase a vehicle pass in ADVANCE to go on the Going-to-the-Sun-Road or North Fork, May 27 to September 11, 2022.

My guess is the same rules will apply next year. Although I started trying to get the vehicle pass over four months ago, they were sold out. I realized the only way around that would be to schedule a tour through one of the approved vendors. Not knowing at the time that part of the Going-to-the-Sun-Road would still be partially closed, we signed up for a tour with the Red Bus Tours.

red bus tours

Red Bus Tours

Everything I read said that on your first visit to Glacier you must drive along the Going-to-the-Sun-Road. It’s a 50-mile drive straight through the park which is not only an engineering marvel but also a National Historic Landmark. Even if I had been able to get a pass, I think something like this is much better left to an experienced driver who can also give you tons of information while you focus on the scenery. After reading a million reviews I went with Red Bus Tours which promised to take me all the way to the Continental Divide.

inside red bus

Some fun facts about the Red Bus:

  • First authorized motor transportation in any National Park
  • It runs on Gasoline and propane which is 93% cleaner
  • Each bus is worth $250,000 today
red bus tours

A couple of days before we left for Montana, we received an email that said our route would be slightly altered because the Going-to-the-Sun-Road was only partially open due to a snow delay. My new “go with the flow” attitude handled this well and honestly, I was just thankful I hadn’t purchased a very expensive off-market vehicle pass. Plus, who doesn’t want to drive around in a 1930 vintage Ford bus with an open-air top? The weather was amazing, and our driver Marv shared more information than you could ever want to know about Glacier.

The Tour

We met at Apgar Visitor center to load up which has a great gift shop. We started off on Camas Creek Road where you could witness the effects of forest fires in 2003 and 2018. They leave the burnt trees to fall on their own while new growth can be seen underneath. It creates an eerie feel but in some ways is really beautiful.

Camas Road
Lake Mcdonald

Lake Mcdonald

Our first real stop was at Lake McDonald, the largest lake in Glacier National Park, 10 miles long and 472 feet deep. The best part is it’s surrounded by mountains and the water is completely clear. Of course, Caden had to put his feet in and realized it was ICE cold. This would be the first of several lakes the two boys would go in over the next two days! We also had a chance to check out Lake McDonald Lodge with its rustic old-world style, built in 1914, right on the shore of the lake. It appears to be booked out forever (I already checked 2023) but would be the perfect location to stay.

dock outside lake mcdonald lodge
inside Lake Mcdonald lodge
caden in water
flowers

The tour continued up the Going-to-the-Sun-Road until the closure. We made a quick stop at Lake McDonald Falls. We then continued onto Trail of Cedars which is a 1-mile loop hike along a raised boardwalk. You are surrounded by ancient red cedars and western hemlocks, some thought to be 500 years old! The best part is the view of the Avalanche Gorge as you cross the footbridge. It’s amazing to see the power of glacially melted waters cascading through the narrow gorge.   

lake Mcdonald falls
danger sign
lake mcdonald falls
trail of Cedars gorge
trail of cedars root

Huckleberry Everything!

After the tour, we returned to Apgar Visitor Center and were on the mission to find food before we took on our first hike. We happened upon Eddie’s Café right in Apgar village which I highly recommend.  Order the Charlie Russell Bison Burger and you won’t be disappointed. Just make sure you save room for a piece of huckleberry pie with a scoop of huckleberry ice cream! In case you didn’t know, Montana is known for huckleberry everything!

huckleberry pie

Avalanche Lake Trail

We really needed to save our energy for the big hike the next day so to get warmed up we tried this moderate out and back 6-mile hike to Avalanche Lake. Before the trip I researched a million hikes in Glacier National Park and decided on a couple that would fit our time frame and our fitness levels. Although these hikes are my suggestion, there are a broad variety of hikes throughout the park that will fit everyone! My All trail app came in handy, but I also used another resource called hike734 which I absolutely love. Click on the link below to take you to the website. I ended up buying the day hike maps for both Glacier and Yellowstone and they came in handy time and time again.

avalanche lake
hike in avalanche lake
deer spotting

The trail starts out back at the Trail of Cedars which we ended up driving our car to, but you could also take the park shuttle. We headed off into the woods with amazing views of the surrounding peaks from Avalanche Creek. To one side was the glacial water cascading down the rocks of the gorge. The end of the trail (before you turn back) opens to a crystal clear beautiful turquoise lake surrounded by mountains. At the time we were there, there must have been 5 different waterfalls pouring into the lake.  It was truly breathtaking! As you can imagine the water was icy cold, but that didn’t stop these boys. They stripped down to shorts and dove in!    

selfie at avalanche lake
boys in water

Day 2 in glacier National Park

This was the hike I had been waiting for! We spent most of our first day on the west side of the park and today we would venture to the east side. Since the Going-to-the-Sun-Road was not open all the way through, we would have to take highway 2 around the park to get to the east side. After realizing it would take 2.5 hours before we even started the hike made me reconsider, but I am so glad we went through with it!

The drive itself was beautiful and we felt like we were the only ones on the road. For the first time since arriving, I think we finally got why Montana is known as “big sky” country. Part of the drive takes you right through the Blackfeet Indian Reservation. This part of history is so important and although it was difficult to witness all the poverty, the statues and other art along the road portrayed the pride of the Blackfeet Community. I wish we would have had time to stop at the Museum of the Plains Indian.

road
mountain range
blackfeet reservation outside glacier national park

Many Glacier Hotel

As we arrived at the entrance of the east side, we had our best viewing yet! Just 10 feet from the car along the side of the road we spotted a bear! It looked like a young bear (no mom in sight) just eating flowers. We slowed down and of course took pictures and it seemed completely uninterested in us! This side of the park felt very different (and much colder) than the other side. We parked at Many Glacier Hotel and checked out the inside where we could warm up before starting our hike. The Swiss chalet style hotel is beautiful, nestled next to a lake, and surrounded by tall snow topped mountains. I was excited to see that the café was named after me!

bear sighting at glacier national park
many glacier hotel i glacier national park
inside many glacier
heidi sign

Grinnel Glacier Hike

Grinnel Glacier is an absolute must-see in Glacier National Park. This challenging hike gives you everything: glaciers, waterfalls, lakes, forests, wildlife, and views along the way you just don’t get tired of. We started the trail right next to the hotel and hiked a flat 2 miles along Swiftcurrent Lake and Lake Josephine. Then the elevation (and the fun) begins! About a mile after the lake, you start seeing Grinnell Lake. It’s a ridiculous emerald color surrounded by Mount Gould towering above you. It honestly doesn’t even look real! Continue climbing the switchbacks (some narrow), passing smaller waterfalls, until you see Mount Grinnell on your right. If you’re afraid of heights, this might not be the trail for you!.

hiking grinnel
cullen ona bridge
going up on grinnel

We also had to cross some snow which seemed crazy in July! Although this trail is considered hard and goes for a full 11 miles, I cannot recommend it enough. On the way back we took a boat for the last two miles returning to Many Glacier hotel. It is recommended to get the boat tickets in advance. Click on the link for more info. I thought it was a fun different perspective to see the area from the water.

** Additional note- if you have a chance to check out Lake Grinnel up close, before heading back on the boat, there is a short 1-mile flat walk to get there.

snow
Grinnel glacier in glacier national park
view of grinnel lake

Where we stayed in Glacier National Park

I cannot recommend Glacier Trail Cabins enough! Realizing that making a reservation inside the park needed to be done a year to two in advance, we found the next best thing! Seven miles from the west entrance of Glacier National Park is a group of cabins run by hosts Su and Jay McCadden. It was a rustic (but very clean) little 2-bedroom cabin which had everything we needed. The kitchen was well stocked, the beds were really comfy, and the welcome basket full of snacks, smores kits, and a bottle of wine topped it all off.  

cabin glacier national park

Within minutes we could be at restaurants or the entrance to the park! The hosts live close by and were there for every question or need. If you stay here, make sure to visit the distillery across the street and do a tasting of local whiskeys.

distillery
distilling sign
whiskey flight

Where to eat around Glacier National Park

  • Josephine’s Speakeasy- located directly across the street from the cabins, we could walk to it! Owned by the same people as the distillery down the hill, this was a fun place to try some local cocktails! The kitchen was open the night we were there with a limited menu, and I highly recommend the Homestead Fries with local goat feta and dipped in Tzatziki. When the kitchen is not open, they have rotating food trucks.
  • Glacier Grill & Pizza- Fun atmosphere with pizza, sandwiches, and local beer. It also has outside seating.
  • Paul Bunyan Bar & Grill- comfort bar food with a big bar, live music, and pool tables!    
paul bunyan
signs

Check out the other segments of our Montana trip:

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